![]() So, I wonder if they weren't in fact the same kits, just with different labels. Even the chemical packages looked the same. His Jobo kit had the exact same mixing directions and developing directions as my Unicolor kit. It was interesting because that was the first time he'd ever done C-41. At the end he mentioned more of his videos, including C-41 developing, so I decided to take a look. What have I got to lose?Ĭholentpot, your coment on stand developing got me to thinking so I googled the topic and found an Art of Photography video on the topic. Heck, I'll load up both rolls and run 'em for 10 minutes. ![]() I have no problem with doing the Blix again. Honestly I don't know what else to do, but also honestly I'd really like to know what is going on. If it also comes out looking severely overdeveloped, then I'm gonna try cutting Unicolor's recommended development time in half for the second roll, and see if that helps. I will develop one roll by itself according to Unicolor's directions, and see what happens. I have two more rolls of exposed Fuji and I think I'm gonna try this. Since I didn't expose the films to light prior to loading them into the tank, and since each roll of Fuji shared the tank with a roll of Kodak that came out correctly developed, the only answer I can come up with is that, for some very strange reason, these two rolls of Fuji seem to have been severely overdeveloped. I can't read the Fuji info on the edge of the strips. If I hold it up to a strong light source, I can just make out some detail, but not enough to tell much about what the detail is. The rolls of Kodak came out looking normal, more or less (I haven't tried scanning them yet), but in both cases the rolls of Fuji came out looking like they'd been either exposed to light or way, way overdeveloped. Each batch included one roll of a Kodak film and one roll of Fuji. I have freshly mixed my Unicolor chems today and I have developed two "batches" of C-41 film so far.
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